[87262] in Discussion of MIT-community interests
Your One-Stop Shop for Printer Ink and Toner
daemon@ATHENA.MIT.EDU (Printer Ink)
Tue Aug 23 09:05:03 2016
Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2016 08:33:18 -0400
From: "Printer Ink" <printer_ink@ihvok.com>
To: <mit-talk-mtg@charon.mit.edu>
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<p align=3D"right" style=3D"font: 9px; "><span style=3D"color: #FFFFFF=
; ">One day it occurred to me that it had been many years since the world h=
ad been afforded the spectacle of a man adventurous enough to undertake a j=
ourney through Europe on foot. After much thought, I decided that I was a p=
erson fitted to furnish to mankind this spectacle. So I determined to do it=
This was in March, 1878. I looked about me for the right sort of person t=
o accompany me in the capacity of agent, and finally hired a Mr. Harris for=
this service. It was also my purpose to study art while in Europe. Mr. Har=
ris was in sympathy with me in this. He was as much of an enthusiast in art=
as I was, and not less anxious to learn to paint. I desired to learn the G=
erman language; so did Harris. Toward the middle of April we sailed in the =
HOLSATIA, Captain Brandt, and had a very peasant trip, indeed. After a brie=
f rest at Hamburg, we made preparations for a long pedestrian trip southwar=
d in the soft spring weather, but at the last moment we changed the program=
, for private reasons, and took the express-train. We made a short halt at =
Frankfort-on-the-Main, and found it an interesting city. I would have liked=
to visit the birthplace of Gutenburg, but it could not be done, as no memo=
randum of the site of the house has been kept. So we spent an hour in the G=
oethe mansion instead. The city permits this house to belong to private par=
ties, instead of gracing and dignifying herself with the honor of possessin=
g and protecting it. Frankfort is one of the sixteen cities which have the =
distinction of being the place where the following incident occurred. Charl=
emagne, while chasing the Saxons (as HE said), or being chased by them (as =
THEY said), arrived at the bank of the river at dawn, in a fog. The enemy w=
ere either before him or behind him; but in any case he wanted to get acros=
s, very badly. He would have given anything for a guide, but none was to be=
had. Presently he saw a deer, followed by her young, approach the water. H=
e watched her, judging that she would seek a ford, and he was right. She wa=
ded over, and the army followed. So a great Frankish victory or defeat was =
gained or avoided; and in order to commemorate the episode, Charlemagne com=
manded a city to be built there, which he named Frankfort--the ford of the =
Franks. None of the other cities where this event happened were named for i=
t. This is good evidence that Frankfort was the first place it occurred at.=
Frankfort has another distinction--it is the birthplace of the German alph=
abet; or at least of the German word for alphabet --BUCHSTABEN. They say th=
at the first movable types were made on birch sticks--BUCHSTABE--hence the =
name. I was taught a lesson in political economy in Frankfort. I had brough=
t from home a box containing a thousand very cheap cigars. By way of experi=
ment, I stepped into a little shop in a queer old back street, took four ga=
ily decorated boxes of wax matches and three cigars, and laid down a silver=
piece worth 48 cents. The man gave me 43 cents change. In Frankfort everyb=
ody wears clean clothes, and I think we noticed that this strange thing was=
the case in Hamburg, too, and in the villages along the road. Even in the =
narrowest and poorest and most ancient quarters of Frankfort neat and clean=
clothes were the rule. The little children of both sexes were nearly alway=
s nice enough to take into a body' s lap. And as for the uniforms of the so=
ldiers, they were newness and brightness carried to perfection. One could n=
ever detect a smirch or a grain of dust upon them. The street-car conductor=
s and drivers wore pretty uniforms which seemed to be just out of the bandb=
ox, and their manners were as fine as their clothes. In one of the shops I =
had the luck to stumble upon a book which has charmed me nearly to death. I=
t is entitled THE LEGENDS OF THE RHINE FROM BASLE TO ROTTERDAM, by F. J. Ki=
efer; translated by L. W. Garnham, B.A. All tourists MENTION the Rhine lege=
nds--in that sort of way which quietly pretends that the mentioner has been=
familiar with them all his life, and that the reader cannot possibly be ig=
norant of them--but no tourist ever TELLS them. So this little book fed me =
in a very hungry place; and I, in my turn, intend to feed my reader, with o=
ne or two little lunches from the same larder. I shall not mar Garnharn' s =
translation by meddling with its English; for the most toothsome thing abou=
t it is its quaint fashion of building English sentences on the German plan=
-- and punctuating them accordingly to no plan at all. In the chapter devot=
ed to " Legends of Frankfort," I find the following: " THE K=
NAVE OF BERGEN" " In Frankfort at the Romer was a great mask-ball=
, at the coronation festival, and in the illuminated saloon, the clanging m=
usic invited to dance, and splendidly appeared the rich toilets and charms =
of the ladies, and the festively costumed Princes and Knights. All seemed p=
leasure, joy, and roguish gaiety, only one of the numerous guests had a glo=
omy exterior; but exactly the black armor in which he walked about excited =
general attention, and his tall figure, as well as the noble propriety of h=
is movements, attracted especially the regards of the ladies. Who the Knigh=
t was? Nobody could guess, for his Vizier was well closed, and nothing made=
him recognizable. Proud and yet modest he advanced to the Empress; bowed o=
n one knee before her seat, and begged for the favor of a waltz with the Qu=
een of the festival. And she allowed his request. With light and graceful s=
teps he danced through the long saloon, with the sovereign who thought neve=
r to have found a more dexterous and excellent dancer. But also by the grac=
e of his manner, and fine conversation he knew to win the Queen, and she gr=
aciously accorded him a second dance for which he begged, a third, and a fo=
urth, as well as others were not refused him. How all regarded the happy da=
ncer, how many envied him the high favor; how increased curiosity, who the =
masked knight could be. " Also the Emperor became more and more excite=
d with curiosity, and with great suspense one awaited the hour, when accord=
ing to mask-law, each masked guest must make himself known. This moment cam=
e, but although all other unmasked; the secret knight still refused to allo=
w his features to be seen, till at last the Queen driven by curiosity, and =
vexed at the obstinate refusal; commanded him to open his Vizier. He opened=
it, and none of the high ladies and knights knew him. But from the crowded=
spectators, 2 officials advanced, who recognized the black dancer, and hor=
ror and terror spread in the saloon, as they said who the supposed knight w=
as. It was the executioner of Bergen. But glowing with rage, the King comma=
nded to seize the criminal and lead him to death, who had ventured to dance=
, with the queen; so disgraced the Empress, and insulted the crown. The cul=
pable threw himself at the Emperor, and said-- " ' Indeed I have heavi=
ly sinned against all noble guests assembled here, but most heavily against=
you my sovereign and my queen. The Queen is insulted by my haughtiness equ=
al to treason, but no punishment even blood, will not be able to wash out t=
he disgrace, which you have suffered by me. Therefore oh King! allow me to =
propose a remedy, to efface the shame, and to render it as if not done. Dra=
w your sword and knight me, then I will throw down my gauntlet, to everyone=
who dares to speak disrespectfully of my king.' " The Emperor was sur=
prised at this bold proposal, however it appeared the wisest to him; ' You =
are a knave he replied after a moment' s consideration, however your advice=
is good, and displays prudence, as your offense shows adventurous courage.=
Well then, and gave him the knight-stroke so I raise you to nobility, who =
begged for grace for your offense now kneels before me, rise as knight; kna=
vish you have acted, and Knave of Bergen shall you be called henceforth, an=
d gladly the Black knight rose; three cheers were given in honor of the Emp=
eror, and loud cries of joy testified the approbation with which the Queen =
danced still once with the Knave of Bergen." CHAPTER II Heidelberg =
[Landing a Monarch at Heidelberg] We stopped at a hotel by the railway-station=
Next morning, as we sat in my room waiting for breakfast to come up, we g=
ot a good deal interested in something which was going on over the way, in =
front of another hotel. First, the personage who is called the PORTIER (who=
is not the PORTER, but is a sort of first-mate of a hotel) [1. See Appendi=
x A] appeared at the door in a spick-and-span new blue cloth uniform, decor=
ated with shining brass buttons, and with bands of gold lace around his cap=
and wristbands; and he wore white gloves, too. He shed an official glance =
upon the situation, and then began to give orders. Two women-servants came =
out with pails and brooms and brushes, and gave the sidewalk a thorough scr=
ubbing; meanwhile two others scrubbed the four marble steps which led up to=
the door; beyond these we could see some men-servants taking up the carpet=
of the grand staircase. This carpet was carried away and the last grain of=
dust beaten and banged and swept out of it; then brought back and put down=
again. The brass stair-rods received an exhaustive polishing and were retu=
rned to their places. Now a troop of servants brought pots and tubs of bloo=
ming plants and formed them into a beautiful jungle about the door and the =
base of the staircase. Other servants adorned all the balconies of the vari=
ous stories with flowers and banners; others ascended to the roof and hoist=
ed a great flag on a staff there. Now came some more chamber-maids and reto=
uched the sidewalk, and afterward wiped the marble steps with damp cloths a=
nd finished by dusting them off with feather brushes. Now a broad black car=
pet was brought out and laid down the marble steps and out across the sidew=
alk to the curbstone. The PORTIER cast his eye along it, and found it was n=
ot absolutely straight; he commanded it to be straightened; the servants ma=
de the effort--made several efforts, in fact--but the PORTIER was not satis=
fied. He finally had it taken up, and then he put it down himself and got i=
t right. At this stage of the proceedings, a narrow bright red carpet was u=
nrolled and stretched from the top of the marble steps to the curbstone, al=
ong the center of the black carpet. This red path cost the PORTIER more tro=
uble than even the black one had done. But he patiently fixed and refixed i=
t until it was exactly right and lay precisely in the middle of the black c=
arpet. In New York these performances would have gathered a mighty crowd of=
curious and intensely interested spectators; but here it only captured an =
audience of half a dozen little boys who stood in a row across the pavement=
, some with their school-knapsacks on their backs and their hands in their =
pockets, others with arms full of bundles, and all absorbed in the show. Oc=
casionally one of them skipped irreverently over the carpet and took up a p=
osition on the other side. This always visibly annoyed the PORTIER. Now cam=
e a waiting interval. The landlord, in plain clothes, and bareheaded, place=
d himself on the bottom marble step, abreast the PORTIER, who stood on the =
other end of the same steps; six or eight waiters, gloved, bareheaded, and =
wearing their whitest linen, their whitest cravats, and their finest swallo=
w-tails, grouped themselves about these chiefs, but leaving the carpetway c=
lear. Nobody moved or spoke any more but only waited. In a short time the s=
hrill piping of a coming train was heard, and immediately groups of people =
began to gather in the street. Two or three open carriages arrived, and dep=
osited some maids of honor and some male officials at the hotel. Presently =
another open carriage brought the Grand Duke of Baden, a stately man in uni=
form, who wore the handsome brass-mounted, steel-spiked helmet of the army =
on his head. Last came the Empress of Germany and the Grand Duchess of Bade=
n in a closed carriage; these passed through the low-bowing groups of serva=
nts and disappeared in the hotel, exhibiting to us only the backs of their =
heads, and then the show was over. It appears to be as difficult to land a =
monarch as it is to launch a ship. But as to Heidelberg. The weather was gr=
owing pretty warm, --very warm, in fact. So we left the valley and took qua=
rters at the Schloss Hotel, on the hill, above the Castle. Heidelberg lies =
at the mouth of a narrow gorge--a gorge the shape of a shepherd' s crook; i=
f one looks up it he perceives that it is about straight, for a mile and a =
half, then makes a sharp curve to the right and disappears. This gorge--alo=
ng whose bottom pours the swift Neckar-- is confined between (or cloven thr=
ough) a couple of long, steep ridges, a thousand feet high and densely wood=
ed clear to their summits, with the exception of one section which has been=
shaved and put under cultivation. These ridges are chopped off at the mout=
h of the gorge and form two bold and conspicuous headlands, with Heidelberg=
nestling between them; from their bases spreads away the vast dim expanse =
of the Rhine valley, and into this expanse the Neckar goes wandering in shi=
ning curves and is presently lost to view. Now if one turns and looks up th=
e gorge once more, he will see the Schloss Hotel on the right perched on a =
precipice overlooking the Neckar--a precipice which is so sumptuously cushi=
oned and draped with foliage that no glimpse of the rock appears. The build=
ing seems very airily situated. It has the appearance of being on a shelf h=
alf-way up the wooded mountainside; and as it is remote and isolated, and v=
ery white, it makes a strong mark against the lofty leafy rampart at its ba=
ck. This hotel had a feature which was a decided novelty, and one which mig=
ht be adopted with advantage by any house which is perched in a commanding =
situation. This feature may be described as a series of glass-enclosed parl=
ors CLINGING TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSE, one against each and every bed-ch=
amber and drawing-room. They are like long, narrow, high-ceiled bird-cages =
hung against the building. My room was a corner room, and had two of these =
things, a north one and a west one. From the north cage one looks up the Ne=
ckar gorge; from the west one he looks down it. This last affords the most =
extensive view, and it is one of the loveliest that can be imagined, too. O=
ut of a billowy upheaval of vivid green foliage, a rifle-shot removed, rise=
s the huge ruin of Heidelberg Castle, [2. See Appendix B] with empty window=
arches, ivy-mailed battlements, moldering towers--the Lear of inanimate na=
ture--deserted, discrowned, beaten by the storms, but royal still, and beau=
tiful. It is a fine sight to see the evening sunlight suddenly strike the l=
eafy declivity at the Castle' s base and dash up it and drench it as with a=
luminous spray, while the adjacent groves are in deep shadow. Behind the C=
astle swells a great dome-shaped hill, forest-clad, and beyond that a noble=
r and loftier one. The Castle looks down upon the compact brown-roofed town=
; and from the town two picturesque old bridges span the river. Now the vie=
w broadens; through the gateway of the sentinel headlands you gaze out over=
the wide Rhine plain, which stretches away, softly and richly tinted, grow=
s gradually and dreamily indistinct, and finally melts imperceptibly into t=
he remote horizon. I have never enjoyed a view which had such a serene and =
satisfying charm about it as this one gives. The first night we were there,=
we went to bed and to sleep early; but I awoke at the end of two or three =
hours, and lay a comfortable while listening to the soothing patter of the =
rain against the balcony windows. I took it to be rain, but it turned out t=
o be only the murmur of the restless Neckar, tumbling over her dikes and da=
ms far below, in the gorge. I got up and went into the west balcony and saw=
a wonderful sight. Away down on the level under the black mass of the Cast=
le, the town lay, stretched along the river, its intricate cobweb of street=
s jeweled with twinkling lights; there were rows of lights on the bridges; =
these flung lances of light upon the water, in the black shadows of the arc=
hes; and away at the extremity of all this fairy spectacle blinked and glow=
ed a massed multitude of gas-jets which seemed to cover acres of ground; it=
was as if all the diamonds in the world had been spread out there. I did n=
ot know before, that a half-mile of sextuple railway-tracks could be made s=
uch an adornment. One thinks Heidelberg by day--with its surroundings-- is =
the last possibility of the beautiful; but when he sees Heidelberg by night=
, a fallen Milky Way, with that glittering railway constellation pinned to =
the border, he requires time to consider upon the verdict. One never tires =
of poking about in the dense woods that clothe all these lofty Neckar hills=
to their beguiling and impressive charm in any country; but German legends=
and fairy tales have given these an added charm. They have peopled all tha=
t region with gnomes, and dwarfs, and all sorts of mysterious and uncanny c=
reatures. At the time I am writing of, I had been reading so much of this l=
iterature that sometimes I was not sure but I was beginning to believe in t=
he gnomes and fairies as realities. One afternoon I got lost in the woods a=
bout a mile from the hotel, and presently fell into a train of dreamy thoug=
ht about animals which talk, and kobolds, and enchanted folk, and the rest =
of the pleasant legendary stuff; and so, by stimulating my fancy, I finally=
got to imagining I glimpsed small flitting shapes here and there down the =
columned aisles of the forest. It was a place which was peculiarly meet for=
the occasion. It was a pine wood, with so thick and soft a carpet of brown=
needles that one' s footfall made no more sound than if he were treading o=
n wool; the tree-trunks were as round and straight and smooth as pillars, a=
nd stood close together; they were bare of branches to a point about twenty=
-five feet above-ground, and from there upward so thick with boughs that no=
t a ray of sunlight could pierce through. The world was bright with sunshin=
e outside, but a deep and mellow twilight reigned in there, and also a deep=
silence so profound that I seemed to hear my own breathings. When I had st=
ood ten minutes, thinking and imagining, and getting my spirit in tune with=
the place, and in the right mood to enjoy the supernatural, a raven sudden=
ly uttered a horse croak over my head. It made me start; and then I was ang=
ry because I started. I looked up, and the creature was sitting on a limb r=
ight over me, looking down at me. I felt something of the same sense of hum=
iliation and injury which one feels when he finds that a human stranger has=
been clandestinely inspecting him in his privacy and mentally commenting u=
pon him. I eyed the raven, and the raven eyed me. Nothing was said during s=
ome seconds. Then the bird stepped a little way along his limb to get a bet=
ter point of observation, lifted his wings, stuck his head far down below h=
is shoulders toward me and croaked again--a croak with a distinctly insulti=
ng expression about it. If he had spoken in English he could not have said =
any more plainly that he did say in raven, " Well, what do YOU want he=
re?" I felt as foolish as if I had been caught in some mean act by a r=
esponsible being, and reproved for it. However, I made no reply; I would no=
t bandy words with a raven. The adversary waited a while, with his shoulder=
s still lifted, his head thrust down between them, and his keen bright eye =
fixed on me; then he threw out two or three more insults, which I could not=
understand, further than that I knew a portion of them consisted of langua=
ge not used in church. I still made no reply. Now the adversary raised his =
head and called. There was an answering croak from a little distance in the=
wood--evidently a croak of inquiry. The adversary explained with enthusias=
m, and the other raven dropped everything and came. The two sat side by sid=
e on the limb and discussed me as freely and offensively as two great natur=
alists might discuss a new kind of bug. The thing became more and more emba=
rrassing. They called in another friend. This was too much. I saw that they=
had the advantage of me, and so I concluded to get out of the scrape by wa=
lking out of it. They enjoyed my defeat as much as any low white people cou=
ld have done. They craned their necks and laughed at me (for a raven CAN la=
ugh, just like a man), they squalled insulting remarks after me as long as =
they could see me. They were nothing but ravens--I knew that--what they tho=
ught of me could be a matter of no consequence--and yet when even a raven s=
houts after you, " What a hat!" " Oh, pull down your vest!&q=
uot; and that sort of thing, it hurts you and humiliates you, and there is =
no getting around it with fine reasoning and pretty arguments. Animals talk=
to each other, of course. There can be no question about that; but I suppo=
se there are very few people who can understand them. I never knew but one =
man who could. I knew he could, however, because he told me so himself. He =
was a middle-aged, simple-hearted miner who had lived in a lonely corner of=
California, among the woods and mountains, a good many years, and had stud=
ied the ways of his only neighbors, the beasts and the birds, until he beli=
eved he could accurately translate any remark which they made. This was Jim=
Baker. According to Jim Baker, some animals have only a limited education,=
and some use only simple words, and scarcely ever a comparison or a flower=
y figure; whereas, certain other animals have a large vocabulary, a fine co=
mmand of language and a ready and fluent delivery; consequently these latte=
r talk a great deal; they like it; they are so conscious of their talent, a=
nd they enjoy " showing off." Baker said, that after long and car=
eful observation, he had come to the conclusion that the bluejays were the =
best talkers he had found among birds and beasts. Said he: " There' s =
more TO a bluejay than any other creature. He has got more moods, and more =
different kinds of feelings than other creatures; and, mind you, whatever a=
bluejay feels, he can put into language. And no mere commonplace language,=
either, but rattling, out-and-out book-talk--and bristling with metaphor, =
too--just bristling! And as for command of language--why YOU never see a bl=
uejay get stuck for a word. No man ever did. They just boil out of him! And=
another thing: I' ve noticed a good deal, and there' s no bird, or cow, or=
anything that uses as good grammar as a bluejay. You may say a cat uses go=
od grammar. Well, a cat does--but you let a cat get excited once; you let a=
cat get to pulling fur with another cat on a shed, nights, and you' ll hea=
r grammar that will give you the lockjaw. Ignorant people think it' s the N=
OISE which fighting cats make that is so aggravating, but it ain' t so; it'=
s the sickening grammar they use. Now I' ve never heard a jay use bad gram=
mar but very seldom; and when they do, they are as ashamed as a human; they=
shut right down and leave. " You may call a jay a bird. Well, so he i=
s, in a measure-- but he' s got feathers on him, and don' t belong to no ch=
urch, perhaps; but otherwise he is just as much human as you be. And I' ll =
tell you for why. A jay' s gifts, and instincts, and feelings, and interest=
s, cover the whole ground. A jay hasn' t got any more principle than a Cong=
ressman. A jay will lie, a jay will steal, a jay will deceive, a jay will b=
etray; and four times out of five, a jay will go back on his solemnest prom=
ise. The sacredness of an obligation is such a thing which you can' t cram =
into no bluejay' s head. Now, on top of all this, there' s another thing; a=
jay can out-swear any gentleman in the mines. You think a cat can swear. W=
ell, a cat can; but you give a bluejay a subject that calls for his reserve=
-powers, and where is your cat? Don' t talk to ME--I know too much about th=
is thing; in the one little particular of scolding--just good, clean, out-a=
nd-out scolding-- a bluejay can lay over anything, human or divine. Yes, si=
r, a jay is everything that a man is. A jay can cry, a jay can laugh, a jay=
can feel shame, a jay can reason and plan and discuss, a jay likes gossip =
and scandal, a jay has got a sense of humor, a jay knows when he is an ass =
just as well as you do--maybe better. If a jay ain' t human, he better take=
in his sign, that' s all. Now I' m going to tell you a perfectly true fact=
about some bluejays. </span></p>=20
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